The Mystery of Oaxaca’s Mole

Posted by la güera · 02Mar2009 · Permalink

The French boast of their bearnaise. Indians are known for tantalizing curry, and Italians for rich, thick marinara. In Mexico, the undisputed national sauce is mole, an intoxicating blend of chocolate, chiles, garlic, onions and nuts and so much more.

"As far as I am concerned, it is one of a handful of classic sauces from around the world," said Richard Sandoval, author of Modern Mexican Flavors and chef at Maya in New York and San Francisco. "It's so potent, so powerful, yet in this country so misunderstood."

The misinformed refer to mole (pronounced MOH-lay) as "that Mexican chocolate sauce." Although chocolate is indeed an ingredient in some moles - if cooked properly, only a mysterious hint remains when the sauce is served over turkey, chicken, seafood, pork or roasted vegetables such as potatoes. There is no definitive mole, but rather endless versions that differ from family to family, from region to region.

Mole, which comes from the Aztec word molli, meaning concoction or stew, is believed to have been created in the late 1600s by a nun in a convent in Puebla de los Angeles, outside Mexico City, to honor the archbishop for building a nearby convent. According to food historians, she spared no expense, using the best and most expensive ingredients to create the dark, savory sauce that grew to tantalize a nation.

Today, Oaxaca has the reputation as Mexico's best state for mole, followed by Puebla and Veracruz. The famous "seven moles of Oaxaca" compose a rainbow of earthy colors such as black, brown, brick red, yellow and green. The region's most famous variety, mole negro, uses six kinds of chile, almonds, raisins, pumpkin seeds, tomato, garlic, onions, plantains, chocolate, spices, chile seeds, lard and more.

Try this Red Mole Sauce (Mole Coloradito) recipe from Restaurant La Olla, Oaxaca México.